🔗 Share this article

When compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. However, situated high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary triumph.